It seems appropriate at this time, having just left the States after 6.5 months and 20,000 miles to spend some time reflecting on our impression of Canada and the US. Although I am writing this is has been the topic of many a conversation between Jill and myself over the months and I would hope it reflects what we have both experienced. It must be said that this is only a view point from a subject of the UK with all its prejudices and conditioning that comes from being brought up on that side of the Atlantic. Although we may almost speak the same language, the differences between Americans and the British albeit subtle, generally concern what we each take as normal, when brought up and immersed in our respective cultures and which therefore often go unnoticed and unchallenged. One of the beauties of travelling is that your own assumptions are often challenged. It occurs to us that the micro cultures which make up North America, and that we have travelled through, perceive their way of life to be normal and quite often beyond judgement and reflection, thus sustaining that way of life because it is safe and predictable, not to rock the boat.
We found an example of this to be the American support of their veterans, which is very strong here. It is not unusual to find highways devoted to them, vehicles displaying banners of support, and shopping malls welcoming them home and to shop in them. These veterans have given part or the whole of their lives to fight for their country and that is very commendable. But what this overt display of support for individuals who fight seems to do is take attention away from what they are fighting for; the political decisions behind the actions that troops are sent to fight in. It is quite a clever political tactic. If one criticises the war, you are being disloyal to the individuals who fought and are still fighting. You are essentially being unpatriotic to your fellow Americans. The net effect is to silence any debate about 'why' Americans have gone to war. Because America has so much, it has so much that could be taken away, making it easy for fear, verging on paranoia, to find fruitful ground to germinate and be harvested by people if it suits their means.
I must add before I get carried away in other observations, that we met nothing but kindness and support in both Canada and the States. People were very gracious, and went out of their way to help us, giving us time, interest, accommodation and knowledge of their world, which we will be always grateful for and hope that we can repay in some small part in the future. Thank you too all.
Canada was like a benign America. There were no rough edges. The insects were horrendous, the land vast, the cities (the ones we visited) pleasant and clean. When we revisited Canada after a short stint into the States, it was like going to visit a favourite aunt. It may cost you a small fortune to drive around and feed yourself while staying with her, but it was a very rewarding experience.
America we felt, was a land of contradiction, where money is God and as long as you have it you are in heaven. Being employees of the NHS in the UK we found the American system of health care barbaric. If you pay your health insurance to a profit making company and can afford the excess, you could receive a very good health care, but often only to a point, then you may have to sell your home to pay health care bills. But if you can't afford health insurance you are just kept alive, but only just it would seem. Two of our friends were paying over $1000 a month for health care. One of the great fears over here is that the social model of healthcare leads to long waiting lists, and folk being in extended discomfort or dying before they are seen by a doctor. Well things may move a bit slowly for some chronic conditions but rarely for acute presentations. Americans it seems to us, have been fed fear by the big money insurance companies, and the medical profession, whose interests it is to keep the present system going, with propaganda like if you had a car crash you would have to wait weeks to be seen; Cancer and you would die before the appointment came through etc. People were quite surprised to hear that it isn't quite like that and that everybody has a right to healthcare which is essentially free at the point of delivery, and of a high quality. The NHS may have it's faults but we think it's a pretty good system and a mark of a civilised society. Someone once said, and I can't remember who, that a culture can be judged on how it looks after it's poor and vulnerable. The US doesn't come out with very high scores.
Another thing that was strange to us is the concept of tipping for everything. To us we understood that as giving somebody something (money) because they had gone beyond their duty and job description; made you feel like the king and queen that you had always wanted to be. But that wasn't the case. You are expected to give 15-20% of the bill for someone just doing their job, even if you were made to feel like the unwanted guest. To withhold was to get a look that could damage your psyche for a very long time. Why people couldn't get paid a decent wage for doing a job without having to rely on tips seems rather exploitative of the employers. Tipping like this seem like bribery given after the event rather then before, but the feeling is the same; you feel done.
We are not surprised that the States didn't sign the Kyoto agreement. Their whole way of life is contrary to saving the planet. Without the car it would be impossible to survive in the US. Because they have the land everything is spread out. Malls go on for ever. If you want to buy anything you have to go to a mall. One mall for this, another mall for that, all wrapped around huge car parks. It would be impossible to walk even if you wanted too. It would take all day to get a pint of milk and you would be killed trying to cross the 4 lane highway that leads you to the different malls. So everybody has to have a car. Also I was under the impression that American cars had got smaller, but every family seems to have a truck, 4x4 preferred, the size of a small articulated lorry with at least a 6 litre V8 petrol engine. People choose petrol over diesel as diesels are beyond the average mechanics ability to fix we were told, whereas the good old V8 can be sorted anywhere. They have steps up into the cab and the bonnet is at chest height. They have the aerodynamics of a 8 by 4 sheet of plywood and drink vast amounts of fuel just going to the mall to buy a pint of milk. Some carry their own gas pumps in the back of the truck as it might take a whole tank of fuel just to get to the nearest gas station and back home again.
We have seen in the National Parks people who drive their 8 litre V8 to the toilet and leaving the engine running for 10 minutes while they do what they have to do. These people need a 8 litre V8 as they are pulling a 5th wheeler the size of a small terrace house in the UK. There seems to be no awareness over here that the car is one of the biggest causes of CO2 admissions and global warming. When I was younger, living in a warehouse in London with an American, I remember being rather impress that he always left all the lights on, the music playing and the heating on 24hours a day. Nothing has really changed it would seem, but I am not so impressed any more.
I mentioned the National Parks, the scenery is magnificent and there seems to be a real commitment to keeping these areas as wilderness. They are however 'victims of their own success', with so many people visiting them that the very thing they are trying to preserve has a great possibility of be overwhelmed.
Fear is the emotion that is given free reign in the states. I suppose this has to do with taming a country of environmental extremes and 'hostiles' in the not so distant past. Every part of the UK has been owned and recorded as being owned from the Domesday book of 1087. Land and life have taken on a stability. Parts of the states were first mapped only 150 years ago and in some places that was a real feat. People came here to get away from the stability of Europe where it was impossible to push against the system that had been there for so long. They had to survive and for that survival it was necessary to own a gun, not only to kill your food but also to protect yourself against other people that might have designs on you or your land. Come the hunting season, peoples dress changes from camouflage gear to florescent hats and jackets in a vague attempt to alert other hunters of their presence so they might stay alive. We heard recently of a camper shot while brushing her teeth outside her tent by a hunter who thought she was a deer. Also a man apparently said to a hunter who had just shot his horse “OK you can keep the elk, but can I have my saddle back”. Shoot first and ask questions later it seems. With everybody carrying a gun you need a gun to protect yourself against those carrying a gun.
Things that can be seen can be destroyed, but other things that may cause you harm are 'wrapped for your protection'. Everything as John Steinbeck observed around 60yrs ago in his book Travels with Charley, is wrapped. All manner of foods and household paraphernalia such as toilet seats and anything that might be considered harmful is wrapped. You may be able to risk your life getting lost in the wilderness of a National Park but you can't buy a piece of cheese that tastes of anything that hasn't been 'wrapped for your protection'.
We have really enjoyed our stay in Canada and the States. Jill has been more surprised by this than myself as she was a bit ambivalent about exploring this area in the first place. The people are generous and diverse, welcoming and very open to sharing their fears. For example when we talked about our plans to travel through Mexico the usual response was “I wouldn't go to Mexico if I were you ,people are getting shot all the time down there”. And “Be careful at the border get away as fast as you can there are lots of shootings” or “A friend of a friend told me there are bandits on the highways....etc.” People here say parts of the US are being overrun by Mexican 'illegals' and California does seem to be being reclaimed by the Mexicans after 150 odd years of US ownership, which is causing much concern. But we asked who would do the manual jobs, working in fields picking the fruit and veg, if it wasn't them. We didn't see many 'white' Americans in the fields, they have all had college educations and expect better for themselves. The great country of America was populated by immigrants from other parts of the world who stole the land from the Native Indians and destroyed their way of life. Now they are afraid that others might invade and destroy their way of life.
America is such a force in the world, both economically and politically, that where America goes other follow. I hope it will contain it's fear rather than spread it liberally across the world, and that it doesn't need to use it's force to protect itself against it's fear, to get what it wants.
The one thing that we have learnt while travelling here is that the world is very resilient. It has changed so much over the millions of years of it's existence, evident in the beautiful rock formations and species that have come, gone and still hang around. The world as we know it may not be around very long if we keep populating the planet as we are doing, demanding more and more from it, but something will be here. Life will carry on and because it is part of nature, it will be beautiful.
Monday, November 29, 2010
Into Mexico
Didn't get a very early start and the time we had driven the 30 odd miles down the 5 to the Mexican boarder it was 1100 and in the mayhem of everything change some Dollars into Pesos. We must be very grateful to Dom who copied us into an email of how to cross the boarder, which was very helpful as it was possible to drive straight into Mexico without having to do any of the paperwork and without Dom's email I'm sure that is what we would have done. The first thing that has to be done is to hand a piece of paper that the US customs stapled into your passport on entry back to them so they know you have left the country. As you don't pass through US customs on your way out I walked back to the US side and stuck my head through a door. Before I had finished asking for help the lady said “don't come in my booth” no problem but the demand was repeated twice more in ascending pitch while I was retracing my steps backwards. She came outside of 'her booth' and she said she would process the papers and smiled a benevolent 'do you know they are all murders in Mexico' smile. Before you drive off you have to get your passport stamped in a booth on your right as you enter. Once the forms are filed in you are sent to the bank to pay 262 pesos each for the privilege. Returning to the original booth, where the man was still on the phone to what sounded like his girlfriend, you hand over your payment receipt and he gets going on stamping. They use carbon paper which I hadn't seen for a while. Having done all that I felt justified in looking a bit smug. 
Next stop was for insurance but was told that you didn't need insurance for a motorbike in Mexico but he would willingly charge me $50 for a piece of paper. I thank him for his honesty and refused his offer of walking me 2 blocks to the vehicle importation office of $5. Driving the 2 blocks, which included a roundabout where everybody had right of way, we parked in a secure, walled and barbed parking lot. People pointed me in the right direction and having filled out vehicle information, had to go and get everything photocopied although there was a photocopier just behind the clerk who was doing the paper work. Copies in hand and lighter of a dollar I returned to the clerk who quickly photocopied parts that I hadn't done on his photocopier behind him, and with lots of stamping and more carbon paper relieved our credit card of 442.58 pesos in exchange for a temporary importation licence for Nancy lasting 6 months. We were then able to get lost in Tijuana legally, which we did trying to find the MX-1 going south into Baja. Stopped for some borritoes and a coffee on the way out as it was now nearly 1400. 
We had to pay 2 tolls on our way to Ensenada of 27 pesos each but the road was good and we started to make progress. The road after Ensanada went down to single carriageway and just after Unapan we hit roadworks. Although the rain had stopped the precipitation over the last couple of days had left a 5 mile stretch of road inches deep in very thick, sticky mud. Cars and lorries got through it the best they could, driving on whatever side of the road that offer the best passage. Trying to navigate in the tracks of the car in front we slid and slipped all over the place. There was a real chance that I would drop the bike as the tyres were doing some very funny things, and the thought of being covered in mud from head to toe wasn't a pleasant one. Jill meanwhile had resorted to her protestant background and found some solace in prayer, which I'm sure is what got us through unscathed.
11 kms down the road we came to a motel, and I must say none too soon as it was just starting to get dark. As Jill was sorting out the room I got talking to a bunch of Americans who were on their way back from the Baja 1000 in a truck and trailer carrying 6 Honda dirt bikes They had all finished which is a feat in itself. Hope they enjoyed the mud up the road in the dark!
We ate in the restaurant and sleep soundly in the room that we left covered in mud from our boots the following morning.
Daniel, the owner, had told us to leave the hot tap running for a few minute in the shower 'as the hot water has a long way to come'. I asked if it would be very hot when it came as I wanted to know if we should add cold water to it. He looked at me in a bemused, head tilted slightly to the side way, and said 'I don't think so'. I forgot we were no longer in the states and the chances of getting any hot water were slim, but as it turned out after about 5 minutes warm water did flow, slowly.
We were on the road by 1000, having made coffee and breakfasted in the room. The road is generally pretty good,
but as you enter towns; beware. Sometimes they have rumble strips that then lead to a huge sleeping policeman (topes) but sometimes there is no warming and rarely are they marked in any way. The first Jill knows about it is the anchors get thrown on hard and a loud 'shit' through her intercom giving her just enough warning to brace herself before being thrown into the air and head butting my helmet. If you are following another vehicle they either know it's there and slow down, letting you follow suit, or they get thrown into the air again giving you warning. Through the towns there is the road, which is paved, and to either side a large area of earth before you get to any buildings. Sometimes there is a 6” drop from the paved road onto the earth, so you have to pick your exit carefully. 
At Colonia Vinente Guerrero we stopped for gas, which is about the same price as in the states, and asked for an ATM machine. We were directed off the main road, passed flimsy wooded structures to a wall with a door in it. 
It worked better than some in the states as it gave us both money and our card back, whereas in the states it quite often only gave us our card back without any money. As the ATM gave us 500 pesos notes, we then had to find a bank that would change them into smaller denominations, and at Lazaro Cardenas just outside San Quintin we found a HBSC. While Jill stood in the very long queue, I talked to a man who had been deported from the states although he had spent all his life there from the age of 2. Seemed very unfair; but as his story unfolded he told me that he had spent 13 months in prison for drunk driving, had 2 wives who were after him for alimony and, although his papers were not in order, he decided not to fight it and moved back to work repairing washing machines with his cousin who seemed to be every second person that walked by.
A fist full of small notes in hand we headed off towards El Rosario, the last town on the road to have a petrol station for 210 miles, passed mile after mile of green house owned by an American company called Los Pinos who export all that they grow,
to where we stopped early for the night at La Cabana motel, a very pleasant place with wifi, clean rooms and good showers for $35. 
We wandered round the town looking into the various stores for provisions. In the states you can get everything in many different brands, but here you have to get what they have, and that will be very dusty, not necessarily from age but from the sand and earth that is everywhere. We have found this simplicity both refreshing and a challenge. Even though we have been on the fringes of the American life, camping and cooking for ourselves most of the time, we have become attached to that way of life and it ain't like that down here in Baja, even though it is still very influenced by the US.
Next stop was for insurance but was told that you didn't need insurance for a motorbike in Mexico but he would willingly charge me $50 for a piece of paper. I thank him for his honesty and refused his offer of walking me 2 blocks to the vehicle importation office of $5. Driving the 2 blocks, which included a roundabout where everybody had right of way, we parked in a secure, walled and barbed parking lot. People pointed me in the right direction and having filled out vehicle information, had to go and get everything photocopied although there was a photocopier just behind the clerk who was doing the paper work. Copies in hand and lighter of a dollar I returned to the clerk who quickly photocopied parts that I hadn't done on his photocopier behind him, and with lots of stamping and more carbon paper relieved our credit card of 442.58 pesos in exchange for a temporary importation licence for Nancy lasting 6 months. We were then able to get lost in Tijuana legally, which we did trying to find the MX-1 going south into Baja. Stopped for some borritoes and a coffee on the way out as it was now nearly 1400. 
We had to pay 2 tolls on our way to Ensenada of 27 pesos each but the road was good and we started to make progress. The road after Ensanada went down to single carriageway and just after Unapan we hit roadworks. Although the rain had stopped the precipitation over the last couple of days had left a 5 mile stretch of road inches deep in very thick, sticky mud. Cars and lorries got through it the best they could, driving on whatever side of the road that offer the best passage. Trying to navigate in the tracks of the car in front we slid and slipped all over the place. There was a real chance that I would drop the bike as the tyres were doing some very funny things, and the thought of being covered in mud from head to toe wasn't a pleasant one. Jill meanwhile had resorted to her protestant background and found some solace in prayer, which I'm sure is what got us through unscathed.
11 kms down the road we came to a motel, and I must say none too soon as it was just starting to get dark. As Jill was sorting out the room I got talking to a bunch of Americans who were on their way back from the Baja 1000 in a truck and trailer carrying 6 Honda dirt bikes They had all finished which is a feat in itself. Hope they enjoyed the mud up the road in the dark!
We ate in the restaurant and sleep soundly in the room that we left covered in mud from our boots the following morning.
Daniel, the owner, had told us to leave the hot tap running for a few minute in the shower 'as the hot water has a long way to come'. I asked if it would be very hot when it came as I wanted to know if we should add cold water to it. He looked at me in a bemused, head tilted slightly to the side way, and said 'I don't think so'. I forgot we were no longer in the states and the chances of getting any hot water were slim, but as it turned out after about 5 minutes warm water did flow, slowly. We were on the road by 1000, having made coffee and breakfasted in the room. The road is generally pretty good,
but as you enter towns; beware. Sometimes they have rumble strips that then lead to a huge sleeping policeman (topes) but sometimes there is no warming and rarely are they marked in any way. The first Jill knows about it is the anchors get thrown on hard and a loud 'shit' through her intercom giving her just enough warning to brace herself before being thrown into the air and head butting my helmet. If you are following another vehicle they either know it's there and slow down, letting you follow suit, or they get thrown into the air again giving you warning. Through the towns there is the road, which is paved, and to either side a large area of earth before you get to any buildings. Sometimes there is a 6” drop from the paved road onto the earth, so you have to pick your exit carefully. 
At Colonia Vinente Guerrero we stopped for gas, which is about the same price as in the states, and asked for an ATM machine. We were directed off the main road, passed flimsy wooded structures to a wall with a door in it. 
It worked better than some in the states as it gave us both money and our card back, whereas in the states it quite often only gave us our card back without any money. As the ATM gave us 500 pesos notes, we then had to find a bank that would change them into smaller denominations, and at Lazaro Cardenas just outside San Quintin we found a HBSC. While Jill stood in the very long queue, I talked to a man who had been deported from the states although he had spent all his life there from the age of 2. Seemed very unfair; but as his story unfolded he told me that he had spent 13 months in prison for drunk driving, had 2 wives who were after him for alimony and, although his papers were not in order, he decided not to fight it and moved back to work repairing washing machines with his cousin who seemed to be every second person that walked by. A fist full of small notes in hand we headed off towards El Rosario, the last town on the road to have a petrol station for 210 miles, passed mile after mile of green house owned by an American company called Los Pinos who export all that they grow,
to where we stopped early for the night at La Cabana motel, a very pleasant place with wifi, clean rooms and good showers for $35. 
We wandered round the town looking into the various stores for provisions. In the states you can get everything in many different brands, but here you have to get what they have, and that will be very dusty, not necessarily from age but from the sand and earth that is everywhere. We have found this simplicity both refreshing and a challenge. Even though we have been on the fringes of the American life, camping and cooking for ourselves most of the time, we have become attached to that way of life and it ain't like that down here in Baja, even though it is still very influenced by the US.
Monday, November 22, 2010
A wet ride towards Mexico
The trip down the 1 was wet. The forecast said the rain wasn't coming in until the afternoon from the north but it seemed to follow us down the coast. We joined the 101 and stopped at the 'rock and roll diner' as we had done a few weeks before for lunch. Travelling on we then took the 154 leading to Santa Barbara where we checked into a Motel 6, the design of which was very pleasant but because it was friday night they charged us $107 for the privilege of staying. We were too wet and cold to find anywhere else. Once we had soaked in the bath for a while to warm up, we walked around and brought some food that we devoured in the room.
Set off the next day and had the most miserable days riding of the whole trip. It rained, it was all on highway/interstates ( I have made up a few more verses of 'Interstatal highway blues' but they contain too many swear words to publish) and as the day progressed so a migraine intensified. Stopped in LA for a Subway lunch and warming Starbucks coffee, before joining the 5 to San Diego where we stopped at REI to get a replacement head torch, as I had sat on my old one and it now kept falling apart. Tired, wet and cold we headed for another soulless Motel 6. Went for a very nice Japanese meal right by the hotel which was very reasonable to mark our leaving the US tomorrow.
Set off the next day and had the most miserable days riding of the whole trip. It rained, it was all on highway/interstates ( I have made up a few more verses of 'Interstatal highway blues' but they contain too many swear words to publish) and as the day progressed so a migraine intensified. Stopped in LA for a Subway lunch and warming Starbucks coffee, before joining the 5 to San Diego where we stopped at REI to get a replacement head torch, as I had sat on my old one and it now kept falling apart. Tired, wet and cold we headed for another soulless Motel 6. Went for a very nice Japanese meal right by the hotel which was very reasonable to mark our leaving the US tomorrow.
Big Sur
We departed San Francisco finally on Tues 16th Nov. Stephanie gave me a wonderful tie dye tee shirt she had made; 
a perfect souvenir of our time with her and Nacho, and our stay in San Francisco; and 2 jars of her mum's home made apricot and jalapeño jelly simply gorgeous!
We departed Nacho and Stephanie's having been thoroughly spoiled once again. Thank you so much. Don't forget to come and see us on your world trip.
We hit the 80 then the 880 before joining the 101 that took us to Monterey and the sedate surroundings of Carmel, where we joined the 1 down to Big Sur. On our way we saw a red pickup truck that had come off the road.
Can you see it and the man carrying a rope down to pull it out. The driver was watching from the road unscathed. It really is a beautiful coastline. 
Sarah met us at the bottom of the track by the post boxes 
and Jill went with her up to the house while I off roaded the bike up the mile and a half dirt track climbing 1500 ft. Our reward was the most amazing camp site 
where later we watched the fog roll in 
and the moon rise. 
We walked through Red woods, 
watched Lamas, 
saw the effects of the big fire 2 years ago that swept through the ridges, 
went to Deetjen's for breakfast and for 2 short days were treated 'right royally'. There may not be bears or rattle snakes here, but in America you are never far from danger. 
Friday morning the weather was closing in so we said our farewells, 
Christian took Jill and the luggage down the hill, while I had fun bouncing down the track before we set off into the rain. 
Thank you for a very memorable time.
a perfect souvenir of our time with her and Nacho, and our stay in San Francisco; and 2 jars of her mum's home made apricot and jalapeño jelly simply gorgeous!We departed Nacho and Stephanie's having been thoroughly spoiled once again. Thank you so much. Don't forget to come and see us on your world trip.
We hit the 80 then the 880 before joining the 101 that took us to Monterey and the sedate surroundings of Carmel, where we joined the 1 down to Big Sur. On our way we saw a red pickup truck that had come off the road.
Can you see it and the man carrying a rope down to pull it out. The driver was watching from the road unscathed. It really is a beautiful coastline. 
Sarah met us at the bottom of the track by the post boxes 
and Jill went with her up to the house while I off roaded the bike up the mile and a half dirt track climbing 1500 ft. Our reward was the most amazing camp site 
where later we watched the fog roll in 
and the moon rise. 
We walked through Red woods, 
watched Lamas, 
saw the effects of the big fire 2 years ago that swept through the ridges, 
went to Deetjen's for breakfast and for 2 short days were treated 'right royally'. There may not be bears or rattle snakes here, but in America you are never far from danger. 
Friday morning the weather was closing in so we said our farewells, 
Christian took Jill and the luggage down the hill, while I had fun bouncing down the track before we set off into the rain. 
Thank you for a very memorable time.
Monday, November 15, 2010
San Francisco Revisited
We arrived at Nacho and Stephanie's Weds afternoon. Stephanie had left us a key but it didn't work so Nacho's brother Gilo kindly came over to let us in. We settled in and around 16.00h Stephanie and Nacho arrived home. It was lovely to see them again and really kind of them to let us come and stay for a few more days whilst we prepared the bike for Mexico. We caught up on news about college and work and had a wonderful supper of tacos de papa made by Stephanie.
On Thursday morning Stephanie made up pancakes for breakfast and they were simply delicious, topped off with her mum's home made jellies.
On Thurs & Friday David set about servicing Nancy, getting her tyres changed, and chatted with Nacho about repairing the side stand. We had made a list of what needed to be done. It seemed a long one and besides all things mechanical to do with Nancy, included fixing David's earphones (they need a new jack plug); replacing David's inflatable pillow which deflates in the middle of the night!! Washing clothes and motorbike pants which were filthy; Nikwaxing the Meindl boots to keep then waterproof and supple (these have been an excellent purchase for bikers who need a protective boot, coupled with one they can hike in also); writing and uploading the Blog; replying to emails; Skyping friends and family; shopping at REI for a replacement Leatherman for David as he lost his small one, a Petzel headtorch as David's has fallen apart, and a big job was fixing the Autocom intercom. We have had this for a number of years and when it works it is brilliant. The trouble is the wires are quite fragile and somewhere or other there is always a problem with a disconnect. This time it seemed my headset was the problem. Last time we were in San Francisco, Nacho's dad fixed my earplugs by putting on a more robust jack plug, which worked a treat. But now the problem is with interference coming through the earplugs which drives us bonkers. And also the microphone sponges are a worn. So over the next few days David serviced Nancy
and I worked my way through the rest of the list.
On Saturday Stephanie and Nacho had a big family supper of Chili Rellano,
Mexican Rice and Tomato sauce, followed by my contribution of sweet potato pie sold as part of a fund raiser for cheer-leading competition to be held in Florida, from the next door neighbour; and chocolate cake. The ladies spent the afternoon skinning, stuffing, coating and frying chillies, making sauce and rice
and
supervised by Nacho's mum Claudia chef supreme
and Stephanie chef par excellence
Then we all tucked into a magnificent feast
and
Check out these chillies-fabulous!
Thank you ladies
Then we sat around and chatted
and curled up on the sofa
A jolly good time was had by all!!
The following day was Sunday and we had decided to have a day off with Nacho and Stephanie to go out for a ride
We filled up with fuel
David discovered an oil leak from the rocker box cover, then headed off for a high spot so that we could get a good view of San Francisco
The weather since we arrived this time has been perfect. Shorts and tee shirt weather. And we could see the Golden Gate Bridge
Then we took off for Napa Valley to see some vines
and do some wine tasting
and
I soon discovered that here in Napa Valley you have to pay for wine tasting, anything up to about $50 and you are limited in what you can taste (spoilsports!). The only winemaker that doesn't charge is Sutter Home, so that was where we went and was allowed to taste 4 wines. Not quite a good day out in the Loire Valley!! Nevertheless I purchased a quite palatable Zinfandel and Sweet Red.
Our final day was spent sorting out the oil leak and doing admin. As I sit here it is about 16.00h. We have been hard at it all day in preparation for leaving tomorrow. And we think David has mended the oil leak. Nancy is looking hard worn but peachy!! Bit like me really :)
On Thursday morning Stephanie made up pancakes for breakfast and they were simply delicious, topped off with her mum's home made jellies.
On Thurs & Friday David set about servicing Nancy, getting her tyres changed, and chatted with Nacho about repairing the side stand. We had made a list of what needed to be done. It seemed a long one and besides all things mechanical to do with Nancy, included fixing David's earphones (they need a new jack plug); replacing David's inflatable pillow which deflates in the middle of the night!! Washing clothes and motorbike pants which were filthy; Nikwaxing the Meindl boots to keep then waterproof and supple (these have been an excellent purchase for bikers who need a protective boot, coupled with one they can hike in also); writing and uploading the Blog; replying to emails; Skyping friends and family; shopping at REI for a replacement Leatherman for David as he lost his small one, a Petzel headtorch as David's has fallen apart, and a big job was fixing the Autocom intercom. We have had this for a number of years and when it works it is brilliant. The trouble is the wires are quite fragile and somewhere or other there is always a problem with a disconnect. This time it seemed my headset was the problem. Last time we were in San Francisco, Nacho's dad fixed my earplugs by putting on a more robust jack plug, which worked a treat. But now the problem is with interference coming through the earplugs which drives us bonkers. And also the microphone sponges are a worn. So over the next few days David serviced Nancy
and I worked my way through the rest of the list.
On Saturday Stephanie and Nacho had a big family supper of Chili Rellano,
Mexican Rice and Tomato sauce, followed by my contribution of sweet potato pie sold as part of a fund raiser for cheer-leading competition to be held in Florida, from the next door neighbour; and chocolate cake. The ladies spent the afternoon skinning, stuffing, coating and frying chillies, making sauce and rice
and
supervised by Nacho's mum Claudia chef supreme
and Stephanie chef par excellence
Then we all tucked into a magnificent feast
and
Check out these chillies-fabulous!
Thank you ladies
Then we sat around and chatted
and curled up on the sofa
A jolly good time was had by all!!
The following day was Sunday and we had decided to have a day off with Nacho and Stephanie to go out for a ride
We filled up with fuel
David discovered an oil leak from the rocker box cover, then headed off for a high spot so that we could get a good view of San Francisco
The weather since we arrived this time has been perfect. Shorts and tee shirt weather. And we could see the Golden Gate Bridge
Then we took off for Napa Valley to see some vines
and do some wine tasting
and
I soon discovered that here in Napa Valley you have to pay for wine tasting, anything up to about $50 and you are limited in what you can taste (spoilsports!). The only winemaker that doesn't charge is Sutter Home, so that was where we went and was allowed to taste 4 wines. Not quite a good day out in the Loire Valley!! Nevertheless I purchased a quite palatable Zinfandel and Sweet Red.
Our final day was spent sorting out the oil leak and doing admin. As I sit here it is about 16.00h. We have been hard at it all day in preparation for leaving tomorrow. And we think David has mended the oil leak. Nancy is looking hard worn but peachy!! Bit like me really :)
Towards San Francisco again
Our departure day began with a spectacular sunrise. I forgot to go to bed with my camera as I had intended, and by the time I was awake and hauled myself out of the tent the colours had faded, but it was another beautiful start to the day and as they say 'the early bird catches the worm' so here is David's take 
We headed along the 127 through the Mojave National Preserve stopping at the
Kelso Beanery for a coffee. Then on to find a spot for lunch and a stroll to have a look at the Salt Creek
Then off through the desert
towards Furness Creek in Death Valley where we proposed to spend the night. As we arrived we were greeted by a mass of RV's which we were later informed were part of the 49'ers celebration of the Death Valley Pioneers in 1849 . We do not exaggerate when we say that a tranquil oasis deep in the heart of Death valley where we had spent a few nights only a couple of weeks ago, had been transported into a humongous RV park.
David wanted a snap shot as we left the following morning, you can't really see it here but the RV lay like pieces of white Lego over great swathes of desert
we reckon this woman was running away!!
Heading off the next morning towards steely grey sky
we stopped to fill up with gas 
and climbed from sea level 
to 4000 feet 
where we stopped to put on some more layers 
Suddenly after I had finished delving into my pannier for my heated waistcoat, Nancy just leaned over in the gravel and lay down. I just hate it when she does that. I go into panic mode. Somehow seeing a bike so big and so laden with gear lying down like a tired old elephant, is deeply troubling. After the initial shock accompanied by a sharp intake of breath something like aarghhh!!! we put all our weight behind her and brought her upright and discovered that the side stand had twisted. So from now on we would have to use the centre stand until it could be fixed. Onwards and upwards towards Searles Lake Trona where we had hoped to get a coffee, but found nobody home 
only machines grinding away in the background 
We had read that Trona was once a company town, built simply to service the Borax industry. It is a strangely defeated town. Isolated and desolate. The shops look open until you get up close and find they are deserted. The supermarket is just about hanging together, and the folk we did see on our search for coffee, had a oddly blank look about them. The only sound was of the borax chemical plant grinding in the background.
It was cold so we had all our layers on, by the time we stopped for lunch by a river at Kennedy Meadows
I have given up being concerned about my appearance! I posted home my nail varnish, jewellery, hair adornments, little summer dresses and pretty shoes!!!
After lunch we made our way towards the Sherman Pass over the Sierra Nevada in the Sequoia National Forest mountains
As we climbed it became colder and low and behold we came upon snow and ice!
Not to be deterred our intrepid leader ploughed ever onwards and upwards, until about 1000 feet short of the summit, at the Blackrock Ranger Station at 8150 feet, we came upon a fork in the road both of which were snow bound, and it was beginning to snow. 'No problem I heard him bellow'. Not on your nelly I thought. Whilst stationary (I must stress)I clambered off the bike to investigate the depth of the snow at this point in our journey. About 3 inches and not just for a few meters in the shade. I put my foot down with a firm hand and quietly insisted we retrace our footsteps. I was not about to risk becoming snow bound on a mountain pass, upon which we had passed no-one (do you think they knew something we didn't?). So reluctantly our leader admitted defeat and we turned around. Of course the next challenge was to renegotiate the snow and ice so far encountered. Damn! And as we approached a rather pretty and deceptively treacherous stretch, our leader slowed down. I sensed he was thinking 'photo opportunity' for the Blog. Well sometimes there is no point in trying to dissuade a particular course of action even if you know it can lead to ruin. And it did!
And so we made our mark alongside the pretty deer footprints (in the foreground). Once again my heart lurched as the front brake locked and we gracefully skidded laying Nancy on her elephantine side. As we lay momentarily with our trusty stead, I realised David had landed hip down on my right wrist (ouch!). We wriggled apart, I felt a searing pain, heard a 'sorry' and we both scrambled to our feet to rescue Nancy. A bit trickier this time as our feet skidded beneath us as we tried to get some leverage. Lucky in some ways there was no other traffic, but we could have done with some help. Nevertheless with a huge heave ho! we did it. The problem now of course is we don't have a side stand, and David was on the wrong side of the bike for getting on. Steady girl! With a balletic hitch of his leg, whilst I endeavoured to keep her still, David leapt onto Nancy, started her up before she slipped again and gingerly motored his way to a 'safe' spot, 
whilst I recorded what I could for posterity. Of course virgin snow looks so benign and Christmassy, glistening on the ground and blowing gently from the boughs of pine trees. I found myself pining to go skiing, but not on the bike!!
A few thousand meters later we were bathed in sunshine and desert with so sign of the white stuff
It was still cold though and just before dusk, we came upon a KOA where we decided to camp for the night. I was so cold I couldn't stop shaking. So once Nancy was safely perched on her centre stand, David packed me off to have a hot shower (first in about 8 days!!!) whilst he erected the tent. All warmed up we abandoned the idea of cooking and headed for the campground bar which offered a limited menu, but who were we to complain. So for $3.50 per choice we opted for chilli poppers, potato wedges, a 3” pizza and chicken wings. But we were offered a drink on the house to wash it down. Strangely, this KOA had a fully functioning swimming pool in temperatures below freezing, yet the KOA in Moab where temperature were around 90°F it was all closed up! Sometime there's no making sense of things.
By 20.00h we were ready to hit the sack. Too much excitement for one day. The following morning we woke to what felt like damp sleeping bags and a tent which crackled like a bag of crisps, but rather than a dusting of salt and vinegar, it was thick frost and ice
and a temperature of about -7°F 
As we de-frosted the tent, packed up and our hands froze, (no breakfast it was too darned cold) we warmed our hands on Nancy's hot pods (good old Nancy!) 
David sure knows how to show a girl a good time!!
At Nelda's
just a few miles on we stopped for a hearty American breakfast, (and guns and ammo if you are so inclined!) 
of 2 fried eggs easy over, hash brown's and toast. I couldn't face pancakes. They always come with maple syrup and cream which doesn't quite float my boat with eggs and hash browns for breakfast. After lashing of hot coffee we departed with a jar of Nelda's home made Jalapeño Jam-delicious!!
We headed along the 127 through the Mojave National Preserve stopping at the
Kelso Beanery for a coffee. Then on to find a spot for lunch and a stroll to have a look at the Salt Creek
Then off through the desert
towards Furness Creek in Death Valley where we proposed to spend the night. As we arrived we were greeted by a mass of RV's which we were later informed were part of the 49'ers celebration of the Death Valley Pioneers in 1849 . We do not exaggerate when we say that a tranquil oasis deep in the heart of Death valley where we had spent a few nights only a couple of weeks ago, had been transported into a humongous RV park.
David wanted a snap shot as we left the following morning, you can't really see it here but the RV lay like pieces of white Lego over great swathes of desert
we reckon this woman was running away!!
Heading off the next morning towards steely grey sky
we stopped to fill up with gas 
and climbed from sea level 
to 4000 feet 
where we stopped to put on some more layers 
Suddenly after I had finished delving into my pannier for my heated waistcoat, Nancy just leaned over in the gravel and lay down. I just hate it when she does that. I go into panic mode. Somehow seeing a bike so big and so laden with gear lying down like a tired old elephant, is deeply troubling. After the initial shock accompanied by a sharp intake of breath something like aarghhh!!! we put all our weight behind her and brought her upright and discovered that the side stand had twisted. So from now on we would have to use the centre stand until it could be fixed. Onwards and upwards towards Searles Lake Trona where we had hoped to get a coffee, but found nobody home 
only machines grinding away in the background 
We had read that Trona was once a company town, built simply to service the Borax industry. It is a strangely defeated town. Isolated and desolate. The shops look open until you get up close and find they are deserted. The supermarket is just about hanging together, and the folk we did see on our search for coffee, had a oddly blank look about them. The only sound was of the borax chemical plant grinding in the background. It was cold so we had all our layers on, by the time we stopped for lunch by a river at Kennedy Meadows
I have given up being concerned about my appearance! I posted home my nail varnish, jewellery, hair adornments, little summer dresses and pretty shoes!!!
After lunch we made our way towards the Sherman Pass over the Sierra Nevada in the Sequoia National Forest mountains
As we climbed it became colder and low and behold we came upon snow and ice!
Not to be deterred our intrepid leader ploughed ever onwards and upwards, until about 1000 feet short of the summit, at the Blackrock Ranger Station at 8150 feet, we came upon a fork in the road both of which were snow bound, and it was beginning to snow. 'No problem I heard him bellow'. Not on your nelly I thought. Whilst stationary (I must stress)I clambered off the bike to investigate the depth of the snow at this point in our journey. About 3 inches and not just for a few meters in the shade. I put my foot down with a firm hand and quietly insisted we retrace our footsteps. I was not about to risk becoming snow bound on a mountain pass, upon which we had passed no-one (do you think they knew something we didn't?). So reluctantly our leader admitted defeat and we turned around. Of course the next challenge was to renegotiate the snow and ice so far encountered. Damn! And as we approached a rather pretty and deceptively treacherous stretch, our leader slowed down. I sensed he was thinking 'photo opportunity' for the Blog. Well sometimes there is no point in trying to dissuade a particular course of action even if you know it can lead to ruin. And it did!
And so we made our mark alongside the pretty deer footprints (in the foreground). Once again my heart lurched as the front brake locked and we gracefully skidded laying Nancy on her elephantine side. As we lay momentarily with our trusty stead, I realised David had landed hip down on my right wrist (ouch!). We wriggled apart, I felt a searing pain, heard a 'sorry' and we both scrambled to our feet to rescue Nancy. A bit trickier this time as our feet skidded beneath us as we tried to get some leverage. Lucky in some ways there was no other traffic, but we could have done with some help. Nevertheless with a huge heave ho! we did it. The problem now of course is we don't have a side stand, and David was on the wrong side of the bike for getting on. Steady girl! With a balletic hitch of his leg, whilst I endeavoured to keep her still, David leapt onto Nancy, started her up before she slipped again and gingerly motored his way to a 'safe' spot, 
whilst I recorded what I could for posterity. Of course virgin snow looks so benign and Christmassy, glistening on the ground and blowing gently from the boughs of pine trees. I found myself pining to go skiing, but not on the bike!!A few thousand meters later we were bathed in sunshine and desert with so sign of the white stuff
It was still cold though and just before dusk, we came upon a KOA where we decided to camp for the night. I was so cold I couldn't stop shaking. So once Nancy was safely perched on her centre stand, David packed me off to have a hot shower (first in about 8 days!!!) whilst he erected the tent. All warmed up we abandoned the idea of cooking and headed for the campground bar which offered a limited menu, but who were we to complain. So for $3.50 per choice we opted for chilli poppers, potato wedges, a 3” pizza and chicken wings. But we were offered a drink on the house to wash it down. Strangely, this KOA had a fully functioning swimming pool in temperatures below freezing, yet the KOA in Moab where temperature were around 90°F it was all closed up! Sometime there's no making sense of things. By 20.00h we were ready to hit the sack. Too much excitement for one day. The following morning we woke to what felt like damp sleeping bags and a tent which crackled like a bag of crisps, but rather than a dusting of salt and vinegar, it was thick frost and ice
and a temperature of about -7°F 
As we de-frosted the tent, packed up and our hands froze, (no breakfast it was too darned cold) we warmed our hands on Nancy's hot pods (good old Nancy!) 
David sure knows how to show a girl a good time!!At Nelda's
just a few miles on we stopped for a hearty American breakfast, (and guns and ammo if you are so inclined!) 
of 2 fried eggs easy over, hash brown's and toast. I couldn't face pancakes. They always come with maple syrup and cream which doesn't quite float my boat with eggs and hash browns for breakfast. After lashing of hot coffee we departed with a jar of Nelda's home made Jalapeño Jam-delicious!!
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