Sunday, December 12, 2010

The Loop: La Paz, Cabo San Lucas, La Paz.

We decided to 'do the loop' around the southern tip of Baja California Sur, for a couple of days, having reserved a room back at the Hotel California for the weekend and the celebration of the Day of Our Lady of Guadeloupe, a homage to the Patron Saint of Mexico, on Sunday 12th.
After Chris let Jill loose on his hair,(a brave man indeed!) we all said our goodbyes Chris was off to Mazatlan (we really enjoyed his quiet presence and his company will be missed), and we set off into the warn sunshine along the coast road stopping at Los Barriles, for a windy lunch, on the beach where we watched a flock of kite and wind surfers zipping insanely back and forth slicing the tops of the waves.
We carried on passing beautifully manicured condo complexes designed to attract Americans giving way again to the brown stuff: sand. We were heading into the land of the American playground (click on this photos and zoom in on the boat!)
We didn't stop at San Jose del Cabo partly because we got in the wrong lane and missed the turn for the city centre. Never mind there is so much to see anyway. As we approached Cabo San Lucas, and Land's End we began to look out for a place to stay the night. Although the rooms we have so far stayed in have been adequate for our purposes, possessing a certain shabby charm, we really are missing camping. So we looked out for a camp ground. At the edge of a sand track leading towards the beach, we saw a camping sign so gingerly headed along it. Nancy handles a bit like a shopping trolley on sand being as how she is very well laden, and I have to employ breathing exercises to take my mind of it. Most of the mile long track was fairly firmly packed sand, but on occasion we slip-slided through powder. Nevertheless we made it without any mishaps.
We were met at Hotel Club Cabo, by Martin who charged us $20 for the privilege of camping, which we thought was a bit steep for Mexico. He also had a few cabañas and suites but they were a bit pricey we thought. Anyway we erected the tent, found ourselves a little table, purloined two chairs from Martin and settled in. Martin told us where the local Walmart is and we set off to buy some food for supper. We were also feeling overwhelmed by Mexican food and really fancied some fresh veg. Armed with some goodies, I prepared a culinary veggy delight.
The following morning Martin said we didn't need to rush to leave, suggested we take a walk along the beach to the harbour, and kindly offered to drive us to the end of the sand track. As we waited I reclined in a rather swanky hammock
The beach opened up a whole new world. Lined with exclusive condos, apartments and time share with all the trappings of wealth: private cordoned off beach, plump pink recliners and waiter service, topped off with beach traders selling all manner of arts and crafts, and all the water sports imaginable including jet skiing, kayaking, kite surfing, fishing, snorkelling, scuba diving, tours in glass bottomed boats, big wave tours, a tourist two masted bark, and a harbour stuffed full Marlin and Dorado fishing boats and floating palaces for rent.
We strolled along the harbour, past fancy restaurants, and folks trying good heartedly beckoning to us to buy something. David took photos (very strange!). I was chatted up by an interesting if not lively fellow, and got the red carpet treatment (my other body is long legged, slender, clear skinned and bright eyed and draped in a long floaty designer masterpiece!) And in case the blindingly rich American is over come with the boredom of sea sports, the resort's piéce de resistance has to be the shopping mall complete with water features with the gilded signs advertising Rolex, Cartier and various other designer labels.
After our mornings walk we headed off towards Todos Santos, along the highway 1 which is largely tarmacked interspersed with sand and gravel-more deep breathing
Todos Santos is a pretty little town with a small square and mission, and cultural centre with a lovely nativity scene minus baby Jesus, I guess until Christmas Eve, an understated bus terminal and whose main attraction seems to be the arts and crafts shops. It seems much of the goods are made in mainland Mexico so we thought rather than pay a premium for shipping, we would wait to buy a souvenir when we get there.
It was tricky finding a place to stay. There didn't seem to be many hotels and no camping (thought there may be off the main highway down dirt roads-we didn't look). Finally we found one, settled Nancy into a safe spot and took off for a walk. We ended the night having a tasty sushi-a welcome change to beans and rice!


  1. Todos Santos is where I did my two week turtle volunteer project! Wasn't Cabo horrible...

    We are now in Nicargua - getting further and further away from you

    Whale sharks look awesome.

  2. Hi Dom, wow you are racing ahead! Read your Blog about the hole in the road. It was like reading a thriller. Every paragraph built up to yet another twist in your journey. I felt sick at the thought of being caught up in a scenario like that. I just hope the road is fixed by the time we get there!! We'll set off with lots of provisions and at dawn I think!! Lots of love for a very Merry Christmas and Happy, healthy, safe, and adventurous 2011

  3. The place seems like my cup of tea, you were right Jill!

  4. what a difference language and a sunny climate make...seems like a whole new journey...too bad you don't have a side car...I'd come and join you for a couple of weeks...xoxo

  5. cool pic-s )
    (click on this photos and zoom in on the boat!) ok zoom and wath? Im need to see? or look )))

  6. Jill you look positively bronzed and so lovely to see some warmth and people enjoying it as we sit and wait for the promised snow here in Devon...a cold, windy, pewter-gray afternoon.
    Can't wait to see where you spend Christmas but have a good one wherever you are...and love to Nancy too! x

  7. Hi everyone. Lovely to read your comments. Judee you are with us in spirit if not more solidly!
    Сергей just see the sailing boat with a huge spinaker of a US flag. Hi 'dovey' Xmas Mexican style has been a real treat. Huge family affair; exchange we are told of small home-made gifts on 12th night! We have never seen so many papelarias and fabric shops as folk make so much themselves. xx