Friday, December 17, 2010
Topolobampo and El Fuerte
Had a very smooth uneventful crossing, apart from the noise of televisions, and arrived into Topolobampo at 2000. Jill wasn't allowed to come with me so had to walk off the boat and I got very lost trying to find the bike. Most of everything was unloaded by the time I had found Nancy and untethered her. I was directed out of the port before I realised that there was no way back to pick up Jill, so with lots of pointing to an empty pillion seat and other wild gestures I was allowed back in to find Jill. We had always said that we wouldn't ride at night, but what do you do when dumped in a port at 2000? I had searched the net and found one write up about a hotel in Topolobampo but wasn't feeling too confident about it's suitability, the other option was to drive 23 Kms to Los Mochis. Not a very pleasant prospect. It turned out that the Hotel Marina in Topolobampo was however very good. A bit pricey at 550 pesos but clean and secure parking for Nancy and the biggest bonus of all, no night driving. The electric turned on and off all night making things were and beep as they turned back on, but apart from that a pleasant stay. We cooked up breakfast in the room before we left through the courtyard into a rather misty morning. We were heading for El Fuerte, a stop on the Copper Canyon railway line, (El Chepe) which according to some railway geek who edits 'great train rides of the world' shouldn't be missed. We stopped off at Los Mochis to buy tickets for the train. The economic train wasn't running on the days we wanted to go so we brought a return for the première train to Creel costing 2100 pesos each. Although the train runs from Los Mochis to Chihuahua the most interesting part of the journey is from El Fuerte to Creel. Onto El Fuetre to find a hotel that could store Nancy for the night we would be away, and after looking in some very smart hotels that were rather expensive and a rather shabby one that was very cheap, plumbed for the Hotel Guerrero which could store the bike at the back of the courtyard and had a very pleasant room for 350 pesos. Even in this secure establishment they take on risks. Having unpacked we headed into town to get a bite to eat but were beaten to it by the black flies that ate both Jill and myself unmercilessly, the itching was so intense that it kept me awake for the next 2 nights. The town was very pleasant with a nice church, a fast flowing river, an interesting museum and lots of bright colours. Had a good meal of fish tachos at the General's house, as I couldn't take another meal of rice and beans and etc. before settling down to a very itchy night.